Thanks for the good information. The new hole that you drilled, with wear, will it break into the manufacture orginal hole? That would be my main concern.

 

I would be much more concerned about the lack of metal at the top of where the new hole was drilled...

 

No, unless you have many thousands and thousands of rounds down line, and even then it would not likely wear through. It is a heat treated bar, to make the metal tougher and less likely to wear. The pressure is fairly rearward, so the thin top area would not be an issue. The photo is of the original Galloway Precision trigger kit trigger bar, where he took a stock LC9 trigger bar and added the extra hole. I modified several stock trigger bars, making the hole about .020 lower than the photo, and .010 further away from the hole. My current trigger bar is in my LC9, and I don't want to pull it out just for a photo, to show the minor differences. The Galloway original kit was stopped over two years ago, due to Ruger cutting off Galloway's supply of trigger bars and hammers. Galloway sold over 3000 of those kits, and I have not heard of one instance of the trigger bar hole wearing through. I have the original Galloway hammer in my LC9, but my own trigger bar, and there is no noticeable wear to the hole, with about 1200 rounds down line and easily over 1000 dry fires.

Also I would suggest instead of using a 3/32 drill bit (.0938 diameter), use a #43 drill bit (.089 diameter). 3/32 is what Ruger makes the hole, but there is some extra play. By using the smaller drill bit, you eliminate a little extra trigger play/movement.

The following link shows a short video of my current trigger pull, which is a shorter pull that my OP mods will produce (the video shows the pull is 1/2 inch shorter than stock versus the above hole mod, which has a 1/4 inch shorter pull than stock):

You will see I have a screw and nut to stop over-travel. Without that stop, the trigger would travel another 1/16 inch. It may not look good, but it works just fine, plus the only person that ever sees my SD gun is me, or those the see the photos/videos. The trigger is the stock LC9 trigger, that I heated and straightened. Heating removes the finish, so I polished the trigger. I did not like the excessive hook at the bottom of the stock trigger. The pull felt like only the bottom 1/3 of my finger was pulling, not the pad of the finger, like it should be. Since this was the original Galloway hammer, it does not pull back the same distance as the stock hammer. I originally got some light hits, but after replacing the firing pin return spring, I have not had any light hits. Light hits was an issue with a number of stock LC9s, with serial numbers starting with 320 and 321. Those with 322 and higher all have the newer firing pin spring, which Ruger engineers determined was the fix for the issue. My trigger pull weight is 6.5 pounds, measuring with a Lyman digital trigger gauge. You can't get it much lower, or you bring in the issue of light hits.


Bob

 

I know the trigger pull is long and heavy but I will stick to the current trigger until someone make a better product. I believe when it comes time to use my pistol I will have enough adrenaline the trigger pull won't matter too much.

 

I'm sorry but new at this. I also don't like the long trigger pull and i don't understand what this extra hole does to lessen the take up and length of pull. Can someone explain or link me to an explanation? Thanks

 

The LC9/LC380 has excessive trigger take -up or free play, which ever you wish to call it. With the hammer in the half cocked position, when the trigger is pulled, the trigger moves about 1/4 inch, before it starts to pull the hammer back. This is the trigger take-up, the trigger is moving but not doing anything to start the firing process. The extra hole removes this wasted trigger movement (take-up). With the extra hole, the trigger moves and almost immediately starts pulling the hammer back. Since the pulling of the hammer is starting about 1/4 inch further forward, everything is shifted forward that 1/4 inch, including the break point being moved forward 1/4 inch. That is as simple as I can describe it. It is a mechanical action of the trigger movement. The trigger is attached to the trigger bar, and when the trigger is pulled back, the trigger bar moves forward, pulling the bottom of the hammer forward, which in turn moves the top of the hammer back, until the break point, when the trigger bar drops down and releases the hammer (boom).

Bob

 

I am new here so just a question would it not be easier to pay $35 for the Saint arms kit and keep the original trigger bar intact in case it needs to go back to Ruger for repair? Just a question.

 

I bought the st arms kit and shot 150 rounds, 3 different brands of ammo. Brass. Aluminum, fmj,jhp. Rapid fire etc. and had absolutly no issues. Love the short pull and no trigger stack. Worth the $