Never had that problem and never tried to disassemble the crane. I took a look at the Ruger website, manual, schematic and it dosen't look that difficult. Take a look but if you don't feel comfortable doing it I would see a good smithy.
This is a discussion on Tight Cylinder within the LCR Technical forums, part of the LCR category; I've put a good 1000 rounds through my LCR (at least). The cylinder seems excessively tight (turning) and this drag is no doubt adding to ...
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I've put a good 1000 rounds through my LCR (at least). The cylinder seems excessively tight (turning) and this drag is no doubt adding to the trigger pull. Seems easy enough to remove the crane/cylinder assembly, but has anyone figured out how to remove the cylinder from the crane?
Never had that problem and never tried to disassemble the crane. I took a look at the Ruger website, manual, schematic and it dosen't look that difficult. Take a look but if you don't feel comfortable doing it I would see a good smithy.
I took note of a previous post of yours concerning bullets jumping crimp with some ammo you were using. Don't know if that is related to your current cylinder problem, but I would call Ruger to discuss the issue before trying to take it apart. I suspect they will ask you to send it to them for repair, most likely on their nickel.

The armscor ammo was some of the first stuff I used and only for a few shots. The cylinder never spun freely like on my S&W revolvers, but now it is really stiff. I'm suspicious that it is possibly internal corrosion, I'm not sure the composition of the bushings, but since the gun has sat unused for a month or two I'm thinking that may be what's happening. Normally, I'd be inclined to take the cylinder off and have a look, but the way it is put together is not as user friendly as an S&W product. I looked at the parts diagram and cant figure out what holds the thing together. I'm thinking it may be press fit and may require some special tools to disassemble and reassemble. Another of several strikes against the LCR. I've tried soaking some liquid wrench in there to see if that seeps in, so far no results. I have emailed Ruger and am awaiting a reply. I'm suspecting I will have to send it back. I'll let you all know the outcome and if I can figure out how to disassemble the cylinder myself.
Please do. I would be interested in knowing the problem. I have never owned any revolver that the cylinder did not spin freely.

Follow up on my story: I sent the gun back to Ruger (they paid the postage). I just got a call from them saying the headspace is out, and that they are going to replace the gun. Kudos to Ruger for replacing the gun but...
This gun has only around 1000 round throught it. Worn out already?
I have decided to trade up for an M&P 340 and this here's why. The LCR is not really designed to be worked on by the owner. The cylinder thing is a good example. Piece of cake to take apart the cylinder on a Smith revolver. Apparently, nobody knows how to do it on an LCR (I looked everywhere). On the Smith, remove a few screws and pop off the side plate, all the innards are there. A little bit of stoning and the Smith action can be made as smooth as glass. Smith installs an erosion plate between the frame and forcing cone to prevent torching. The Smith is ALL METAL one piece frame and "fire control housing." The Smith is several ounces lighter and most of all, it is way way prettier than the LCR. I enjoyed my LCR while it lasted, but I shoot my guns alot and I need something that I can work on, and that will stand the test of time.

Sounds like Ruger did their part...Love my LCR!
Thanks for the update. It will be interesting as time goes on to see if this a problem or just a bad part on one gun.
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